Winter in Aroostook County
A group of friends ice fishing on Long Lake in Saint Agatha. Photo: Paul Cyr.
By Carey Kish
Traveling north on Interstate 95, you’ll cross into Aroostook County around mile marker 262, a little shy of the Sherman Mills exit. If you’ve noticed the snowbanks are higher up this way, well, that’s because it snows a lot—10 feet is typical—and winter is long in these parts. That’s good news if you’re looking for great recreational opportunities like Nordic and downhill skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, skating and ice fishing, never mind stunning natural beauty, rich culture and history, good food and drink, and friendly local folks.
Leave the four-lane highway behind at Exit 286 and head into Smyrna Mills, a regional hub of Amish settlers who began arriving here in the mid-1990s. For the Amish, who eschew automobile travel and other such modern conveniences, the old-fashioned general store in town called Pioneer Place is essential. Among the aisles you’ll find everything from kerosene lamps, hardware and tools to jams, jerky and trail mix. At nearby Spring Break Maple & Honey, owners Kristi and Kevin Brannen produce maple syrup and honey products on 100 acres of protected land. The factory store sells the delicious treats, and if you’re there on Maine Maple Sunday (the fourth Sunday in March), you’re in for a festive time.
Gateway Crossing footbridge at Houlton Riverfront Park. Photo: Christopher A. Mills Photography
Follow U.S. Route 2 to Houlton, where a walk through the Market Square Historic District will provide a look at the architecturally beautiful brick and masonry buildings that survived the fires of 1884 and 1902. Among them is member-owned and -operated County Co-op & Food Store, which sells locally produced natural and sustainable foods. Settle in for a tasty soup and sandwich combo, browse the artwork and knick-knacks, and take some fresh baked goods to go. A short stroll away is Houlton Riverfront Park, where a trail over the Gateway Crossing Footbridge leads across the Meduxnekeag River and then along it for a good mile, a popular track in wintertime for cross-country skiing.
North along U.S. Route 1 through the rolling terrain of woods and fields, you’ll begin to get a sense of scale of this place called Aroostook. Affectionately known as “The County,” Aroostook is a sprawling affair of more than 6,800 square miles, the largest county east of the Mississippi River and an area larger than Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. Often called the “Crown of Maine” for its geographic expanse across the northern reaches of the Pine Tree State, Aroostook County is bounded on three sides by Canada: Quebec to the west and New Brunswick to the north and east.
In summer the sweeping farmlands before you produce not only the County’s signature crop of potatoes, which have been farmed here since being introduced by Irish and Scottish immigrants more than two centuries ago, but an abundant harvest of broccoli, cauliflower, canola, grains, hops, malt barley and sunflowers. Bearing west around the shapely profile of Mars Hill, the mountain’s long ridgeline now reveals the turbine towers of Mars Hill Wind Farm. The first commercial wind farm in New England, its 28 turbines generate 127,000 megawatt-hours of clean energy, enough to power 18,000 households annually. Here also are the slopes of BigRock Mountain, where 29 trails, three lifts and 1,000 feet of vertical drop delight alpine enthusiasts with both day and night skiing.
By now you’ve probably noticed the planets along the road. Beginning with diminutive Pluto in Houlton and ending 40 miles away with the enormous Sun in Presque Isle, the Maine Solar System Model is the largest 3D scale display of the solar system in the western hemisphere. Created by the University of Maine at Presque Isle with the help and support of hundreds of community volunteers, this amazing science exhibit is good for 100 miles of planetary adventure.
On the outskirts of Presque Isle, near the entrance to Aroostook State Park, is another spot of wild blue yonder interest, the Double Eagle II Balloon Site, which commemorates the launch of the first-ever successful transatlantic balloon voyage in 1978. The neighboring state park is the site of another first, Maine’s first state park, established in 1939. It’s 800 acres features miles of pleasant trails for snowshoeing and groomed and tracked cross-country skiing.
Presque Isle, the largest city in Aroostook County with a population of a little under 9,000 residents, hosts the County Snow Fest in late January each year, a three-day event celebrating all things winter with fun and games for all ages, including fireworks, live music and bonfires. Throughout the year, enjoy the work of local artisans on the First Friday Downtown Artwalk. Among the shops along the city’s Main Street is Neighborhood Books, a little independent bookstore with a nice selection of new and bargain books worth some quality browsing time. If you need outdoorsy goods, Bike Board & Ski stocks alpine and Nordic skis, boot and poles plus warm clothing and accessories. Looking for vegan and gluten-free fare? County Roots serves up healthy deliciousness, from sandwiches, wraps and salads to soups, stews and baked goodies.
On the way out of town, grab a fresh brewed coffee and tasty cream roll at Hub Coffee, a new community gathering hotspot. Northeast of downtown is the Nordic Heritage Center, where seven loops and a couple trails emanating from the hilltop lodge account for over 12 miles of excellent skiing. Complementing this is a sinuous 20-mile system of snowshoeing trails.
At Russell’s Motel on Main Street in Caribou, enjoy quiet rooms that are squeaky clean and feature beautiful blue quilts on the beds, handmade by innkeeper Donna Murchison’s mom. Just down the road is Northern Maine Brewing Company, which crafts a refreshing menu of beers, including their flagship brew, Maine Logger, a clean, crisp Pilsen-style lager. The stylish restaurant creates top-notch pub fare and plated specialties.
Bundled up for the morning cold, head northwest on Route 161 and steer for Stockholm and Anderson’s Store, where you’ll revel in the aroma of fresh baked breads, rolls, cakes, crisps and pies while waking up with a cup of good coffee. Sometime around 1870, Swedish immigrants introduced Nordic skiing to the Aroostook region, and today, it seems pretty much every town sports a few miles of groomed trails for some cross-county fun. So it is with Stockholm, where you’ll enjoy classic and skate skiing on a lovely network at Stockholm Landing and Trails. The Tower Trail makes a 5-mile loop that leads to a historic 48-foot fire tower. Climb it for not only a fabulous view but to experience a slice of Maine’s bygone era of forest fire protection.
A team of sled dogs taking off at the 2020 Can-Am Crown International Sled Dog Races in Fort Kent. PHOTO: PAUL CYR
Route 161 continues north to join U.S. Route 1 at Fort Kent on the St. John River, which separates Maine and New Brunswick. At this downtown juncture, turn west and drive the last mile of U.S. Route 1 to the America’s First Mile historic marker at the northern terminus of this famous highway; its other end is located 2,466 miles south at Key West, Florida. If you’re visiting in early March, you’ll be right on time for the Can-Am Crown International Dog Sled Race, a challenging series of races that are exciting for mushers, spectators and dog teams alike.
Immediately south of the village, the Fort Kent Outdoor Center is home to close to 25 miles of excellent skiing on the Lodge, Violette Settlement and Green Bean trail networks. There are also 7 miles of meandering snowshoe trails. The abutting Lonesome Pine Trails ski area is Maine’s northernmost where you can schuss day and night while enjoying grand views across the river into Canada.
Hoist a cold craft brew at First Mile Brewing Company in a converted potato barn, then tuck into Rock’s Family Diner—a Fort Kent institution since 1945—for a home-cooked meal of comfort food, from traditional Acadian dishes like ployes, chicken stew and poutine to classic American favorites.
The St. John River Valley is the heart of Acadian culture in Maine, where descendants of French immigrants from neighboring Canada, known as Acadians, retain French as their native tongue and comprise the largest French-speaking population in North America outside of the province of Quebec.
Meander north along the St. John River on U.S. Route 1 on a scenic section of the St. John Valley/Fish River National Scenic Byway to downtown Madawaska, one of the four corners of the United States. Check in to the Inn of Acadia for a comfortable night’s stay with premier amenities, like the Voyageur Lounge, where a soothing nightcap and a hearty meal might be in order along with some well-earned downtime to reflect on your wild and wonderful winter Aroostook adventure.
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